My husband Carlos spends fall and winter watching football and Christmas movies on the Hallmark Channel, sometimes simultaneously. Being from California, his impression of New York City during the holidays comes from a combination of “A Christmas in New York,” “A New York Christmas Wedding,” “City Girl Country Christmas” and at least two dozen other Hallmark movies with “Christmas” in the title.

He wanted us to visit New York in December. For a day, we’d meander down uncrowded streets, laugh and drink hot cocoa that we didn’t wait in line 45 minutes to buy, look in awe from the uncrowded plaza at the Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree and then stare in childlike wonder at the decorations in Macy’s store windows.

I didn’t have the heart to tell him that New York City at Christmastime is hell on earth, only colder.

I prepared for the 20-degree weather with a coat, hat, gloves and scarf. Carlos did the California preparation for “cold” (50 degree) weather and wore a jacket. I put an extra hat and gloves in my backpack.

We boarded the NJ Transit train to Penn Station. The windows were completely fogged over because, as everyone knows, NJ Transit windows cannot be exposed to sunlight. “These windows make it look like it’s snowing!” Carlos exclaimed. “Sure,” I replied.

We arrived at the 59^th Street subway station and began our trek to Rockefeller Center. Once we hit 5^thAvenue it felt like we were in a mosh pit being carried along in the chaos. This is where Carlos’ football knowledge paid off and he moved us through the throng like a linebacker until we were near the tree. “It’s beautiful” he said.

I had to admit he was right. A beautiful tree and a skating rink full of people moving in time to “WAP” by Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion.

Then, the penguin lady appeared. She was dressed in a red pajama-like outfit, with a funny penguin sweater full of flashing lights. She carried a stuffed penguin under her arm. “Your sweater is hilarious!” I said.

“What?!?” she replied. “My mother knitted that for me a week before she died.”

I froze. A few seconds later she said “I’m just kidding. Would you mind taking a picture of me with my penguin.” Carlos took several photos while I thought that maybe this wasn’t so bad after all. I’m drawn to eccentric and interesting people and this woman was both. She told us how she lived in New York but travelled the world taking photos with her penguin. I wanted to ask her why, but then I thought “why wouldn’t she?” The penguin lady vanished into the crowd as quickly as she had appeared.

Carlos was shivering but refused the extra hat and gloves I’d brought. I was cold too, so we stopped into a church we passed along the way (St. Patrick’s). It was beautiful and ruthlessly efficient. Credit cards were accepted to light candles, and the gift shop was near the front door. It was jammed with people, but it was warm.

Our next stop was Grand Central. “Are there decorations there?” Carlos asked. I had no idea, but I lied and said “yes” because I knew there was a restroom and an Apple Store where I finally caved and spent $50 for the 2025 Pride watch band.

We continued to Bryant Park and Carlos’ eyes lit up when he saw the cocoa stand. “I wonder if that’s the one from ‘Christmas Cocoa’ on Hallmark?” he said. I said “probably,” knowing full well that the “real” one was on a soundstage in Toronto. His disappointment showed when he realized the line for cocoa stretched out of the park and onto 42^nd Street.

We skipped cocoa and walked down 6^th Avenue to Macy’s. “This is where Lacey Chabert realized she wanted to move to the country and marry the farmer,” Carlos said. I was confused. “Who is Lacey Chabert? Who is the farmer?”

“You should watch with me sometime,” Carlos said.

“Does the farmer take his shirt off?” I asked as Carlos rolled his eyes.

We continued to Hudson Yards. Whoever designed it failed to take the punishing winds off the Hudson River into account. By then temperature was 30 degrees but the winds were so strong it felt like 10 below.

“Want to walk the High Line?” I asked. “Are you kidding?!?” Carlos said. “We’ve already walked an unbelievable amount.” To be fair, two blocks is an “unbelievable amount” of walking to people from California.

We headed back to Penn station and our quiet house in a quiet town. I love New York City and am grateful it’s less than an hour away but going home is always just as fun. We have our dog, Carlos has his Hallmark movies, and I have videogames. Besides, the city doesn’t notice us either way.